Bobbi Bensman on Lynn Hill and 1990s Competition Climbing
In this episode, Kris and Bobbi discuss her years as a competition climber, her greatest rivalry, when she realized that Lynn Hill, who she’s known since 16, was on another level, and how their friendship has grown over the years.
Lynn Hill Proves It Goes
Lynn Hill was looking for a different kind of progression. By the mid-1990’s climbing grades had skyrocketed, and Lynn was climbing harder and harder. But difficulty wasn’t what drove her. She wanted adventure.
The French vs. The British | A Battle of Route Names
We’re diving into the rivalry of the British versus the French during the 90s.
Alan Watts on Jibe Tribout and Just Do It
In this episode, Alan and Kris discuss Jibe Tribout and whether he was the villain he seemed to be, as well as the true story of America’s first 14c, Just Do It.
Adam Ondra on Just Do It and the Importance of Climbing History
In this episode, Kris and Adam discuss the importance of history, how Just Do It checks all of the boxes for a classic, the value of competition, and the impeccable vision of Alan Watts in bringing Smith Rock into the new age.
Bonus: Mike Call on Filming and Shaping 90’s Era Climbing
In this episode, we talk about the shaping of The Boss and the early days of Pusher, what it was like filming and editing back then, and MANY of the best stories about filming with Boone Speed, Chris Sharma and more superstars from that era, including the landmark first ascent that Mike recorded over.
Dorothea Karalus on Fred Nicole and La Danse des Balrogs
Dorothea Karalus drove over 400 miles, repeatedly, over several years to repeat Fred Nicole’s classic V13 La Danse des Balrogs in Branson, Switzerland.
Bjorn Pohl on Fred Nicole and What Makes a Legend
Bjorn Pohl is a climbing journalist and podcaster who has covered climbing since the late 90’s, and has seen the impact of Fred Nicole on bouldering for the past 20+ years.
Will Anglin on Fred Nicole and New Ways of Seeing
Will Anglin spends a lot of time thinking hard about hard bouldering. And good bouldering. And of course, doing as much of both as possible.
Fred Nicole Dances with the Demons
Fred Nicole was never simply an athlete. He was an artist.
BONUS: Hubble vs. Action Directe | The World’s First 9a (14d)
Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other. One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe?
Alex Megos on Wolfgang Gullich and Action Directe
There’s no climber more qualified to discuss Action Directe than Alex Megos. He has the fastest ascent, the most ascents, and he is, in our estimation, the person who is carrying the torch that Wolfgang Gullich left behind.
Ben Cossey on Wolfgang Gullich and Action Directe
One of Australia’s best and most colorful climbers, Ben Cossey is, in his words, a Wolfgang Gullich froth dog. Action Directe is a life goal that he’s come close on, and plans to return to.
Wolfgang Güllich Takes Direct Action
13d, 14a, 14b. Wolfgang Gullich was the first to climb them all. Now, with Action Directe, he was set to raise standards once again.
Steve McClure on Ben Moon and Hubble
In 2000, Steve McClure completed a project Ben Moon had spent 120 days on and left unfinished, calling it Northern Lights and giving it 9a. The torch was passed.
Buster Martin on Ben Moon and Hubble
Buster joins Kris to discuss Raven Tor and Hubble, trading texts with Ben while working them, the debates around Hubble, why history matters, and of course, what Ben Moon means to the British climbing scene.
Ben Moon Launches into Orbit
It’s hard to argue that any climber from the 90’s had a bigger impact than Ben Moon.
Katie Brown on Lynn Hill and Other-Worldliness
Lynn Hill called Katie Brown the best sport climber in history BEFORE Katie became the first woman to onsight 13d.
Lynn Hill Reaches Critical Mass
1991. No woman has climbed 5.14, and some say they never will. Lynn Hill didn’t listen.